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Advent, Advent - Der Segen für selbstgebastelte AdventskränzeThe light of the candles signifies the light of Christ, Who will come into the world at Christmas. Children, in particular, find delight in the ceremony of the Advent wreath, and it's a great way to remind them that, despite the Christmas specials on TV and the Christmas music in stores, we're still waiting for the Birth of Christ.
If you've never adopted this practice, what are you waiting for? You don't need a special frame for the wreath though there are many commercial ones available.
You can buy a standard wreath frame from most craft shops, or, if you're handy, you can fashion one out of heavy-guage wire. Frames that are made specifically for Advent wreaths have holders for the candles fastened right on the frame.
If your frame does not, you will need separate candle holders. If you can't purchase or make a frame, you can always arrange the evergreen boughs and candles in a line, perhaps on a mantel, buffet, or windowsill.
Traditionally, the Advent wreath has featured four tapers long candles that come to a point on the end , one for each week of Advent. Three of the candles are purple; one is rose.
If you don't have three purple and one rose candle, don't worry; four white ones will do. And, in a pinch, any color will suffice. The colors simply add symbolism to the wreath.
Purple reminds us that Advent, like Lent , is a time of penance, fasting , and prayer ; while the rose candle is first lit on Gaudete Sunday , the Third Sunday in Advent, to give us encouragement and to remind us that Christmas is indeed coming.
Next, cut some evergreen boughs to weave into the wire frame. It doesn't really matter what kind of evergreen you use, although branches of yew, fir, and laurel are most traditional and tend to last the longest without drying out.
For a more festive touch, you can use holly, and if you already have your Christmas tree, you can use small branches trimmed from it. Younger branches are easier to work with in the next step, when we weave the evergreen boughs into the frame.
There's really no right or wrong way to weave the boughs into the wire frame, but you do want to make sure that portions don't stick up so high that they might come close to the candle flame.
Choosing younger branches of yew, fir, and laurel is helpful, because they are relatively easy to bend and weave.
You don't need to make the wreath look uniform; in fact, some variation will make the wreath look nicer. If you're making the wreath without a wire frame, simply arrange the boughs in a row on a flat surface, such as a fireplace mantel.
If your frame has candleholders, place the candles in them now. If the candles do not fit snugly in the holders, light one and let a little melted wax drip into the bottom of each holder.
If your frame doesn't have candleholders or if you're not using a frame , simply arrange the candles in standalone holders alongside the boughs.
Always use candleholders, and make sure that the candles fit snugly in them. Fire and drying branches don't mix or, rather, they mix too well.
I like to keep a stiff paint brush handy for cleaning the bit. Now you need to flip your door over ensuring you are keeping the bit on the hinge side of the door.
The inside of the door should now be facing you. Repeat the process as you did on the other side only drilling small amounts at a time.
Continue until all 25 doors are drilled. To ensure the holes are straight and cleaned out well, I like to put the drill bit into my 12v cordless hand drill and ream the holes running the bit through the entirety of the hole.
If you are slightly off angle with the holes you can use the bit to lightly ream them. But if you did this process slowly and carefully everything should line up nicely.
This can be done on a band saw, miter saw or by hand. The easiest for me was on my band saw. Put 5 axel pegs through the holes with the button side away from the blade and the excess part of the peg sticking out.
Slide the MDF board along the fence through the saw cutting off the excess. Your blade should lightly skim along the MDF board. This was just my quick easy way of doing this that was a lot safer than cutting on a miter saw.
Alternatively, you can purchase small brass or silver finish turned knobs from Lee Valley if you want something a bit fancier. However, since you need 25 of these, it can get a bit costly.
Using the drill press with the fence and stop makes this step simple and quick as you only have to mark one door for the setup.
For the door numbers, I purchase them online from Stockade. If you own a laser engraver cutter, you can make your own. The material list in the attached plans tells you how many you need of each number.
This way you can always get the numbers in the center of the door. I also cut an area for the knob so I can do all the work on the doors at once.
Glue on the numbers and the door knobs with Gorilla Super Glue. You only need a small amount, too much and you will have squeeze out that is difficult to remove.
Finally, glue a 4 washer around the hole for the rod hinge on the bottom only. This will keep an even space underneath the door when it's upright.
It's not necessary to put on on the top. I glue them in at this stage to make the door installation easier. I find this easiest to do before installing the doors.
I cut thin strips of maple that match the case wood. Place the case upside down with the back facing you. Glue each piece on the top side of each compartment opposite of the hole for the hinge rod with Gorilla Super Glue.
Make sure each piece is flush with the back. Assembly is always a bit of a trial process. Remember they have to be installed in order. Test each door to ensure they open and close properly.
Sometimes you may need to either do some fine sanding of the doors or ream the hinge rod hole slightly. Repeat this process for each column of doors.
Once all the inner doors fit well, test for the bottom row of doors to ensure they will work will. You will want to do a dry fit of the bottom piece as well.
You may need to slightly tap the steel rods to go into the holes of the top and bottom of the case. Glue and clamp the bottom piece in place.
One final touch still needs to be done. Once the case frame is dry, remove from clamps and scrape any excess glue.
You may notice that the doors tend to flop open. The difficult time I have had was getting the doors to stay closed. I had one customer say that I should put in little magnets.
However, this would be a tedious task as well it would increase the cost of the calendar quite a bit. As a solution, I put a dab of clear hot melt glue on bottom outside corner of each door.
Let it cool slightly and push it down with your finger to flatten it out so that the door has just enough friction to keep it closed.
Test your door, If you make a mistake just peel it off and try again. See the drawings for the exact dimensions and verify with complete case assembly.
The 45 degree angle for the roof gable can be cut on your miter saw or table saw using the miter gauge. Mark your cut line with an angle square on both sides of the board before cutting to ensure you get your cut accurate.
I use my miter saw, I set my stop at the height of the back of the case area, then cut as far as I can at a 45 angle for one half of the roof.
Then I flip it over and cut the other side. Lightly sand the cut edges for a clean edge. Apply glue to all rabbit areas and a thin bead on the backs of the dividers.
I like to brush out the glue before applying back panel to ensure an even thin layer of glue and to prevent any major glue squeeze-out.
Clamp and set aside. This step was one of my additions that I started doing after having some issues of the roof assembly coming off.
This has proven to really assist in the stability of the calendar as well as giving a cleaner look on the back. I cut the roof gable on my miter saw or you can use your table saw with miter gauge set at a 45 degree angle.
Verify the length required for the bottom side of the gable by measuring the top of the case between the inside edge of the 45 degree chamfer on the top of the case.
The gable must sit in that area evenly so the roof parts don't have any gaps. An easy way, now that you have your back panel glued in place, is to trace the back panel onto your gable piece.
The back panel and gable must be flush on the outer angled edges. Dry fit the pre-glued roof section, gable and case and sand as required to give a tight fit.
Before attaching the gable to the back panel, you will need to sand off the finish on the back side of the gable. Since only one coat was put on, roughing up the back with grit paper will remove the finish to allow the glue to adhere properly.
To attach the gable to the back panel and case, spread a thin layer of wood glue on the back and bottom edge of the gable and clamp.
I usually leave this clamped for about half an hour. Remove from the clamps and scrape out any glue squeeze-out before it dries too hard.
You may need to do a light sand of the case 45 angles at the top, and the outer gable edges and back panel to ensure they are smooth.
Now you can glue on the roof assembly. Make sure the front of the roof is flush with the case front the the area that was taped during spray finishing is at the back.
Apply glue along the angled edges of the gable and the angled corners on the top outside edges of the case. Clamp together making sure the entire assembly stays flat.
Because the roof gable wants to pull up, make sure you clamp the gable and calendar case to your work bench to hold it down and keep it flat. While the case is drying you can cut the roof facia scallop pieces for the front of the roof edges.
Cut 45 degree angles on one end of each piece. Print 2 copies of the attached drawing plans for a scaled template for the facia pieces.
You can either use spray adhesive to attach the template to the wood or trace it out. The paper can easily be removed after cutting and a light sand removes any gum residue from the glue.
Cut your scallops on the band saw or scroll saw and finish sand with grit paper. Glue and clamp to front edges of roof ensuring pieces are even and line up straight at top.
Make sure the facia doesn't block the top corner doors from opening properly. TIP: Depending on my material, I often cut the facia from a wider piece of stock, cut the scallops and sand the entire piece.
When cutting this way, it is safer to leave the one end square and cut the 45 degree angle after the individual pieces are cut. This makes it safer to rip giving you a square end to use a push block on the table saw.
To cut the Christmas tree for the top you will need some of the accent Padauk wood with maple accents. Or you can do in reverse with a maple tree with Padauk accents.
You will use the attached plans again for the scaled template for the tree. Cut out the tree on a scroll saw my preference or band saw with a fine blade and sand to smooth all edges.
Cut with scroll or band saw. If you pick up some pre-glued veneer edging you can attach by ironing on. Glue the garland to the tree with Gorilla Super Glue.
Feel free to be inventive. This allows a bit of the light from the tea candle to glow through giving the appearance of ornaments on the tree.
Making the tree is definitely a bit tedious, another step that would be easily done on a laser engraver cutter.
That is the one tool that is on my wish list as I make numerous projects with small cutouts. There are other options for the decorative accent for the candle holder.
Ready made wood cutouts can be purchased through various online stores like Stockade. They have numerous Christmas options, i.
Christmas trees, Reindeer, Wreaths… Remember these will be done in a white wood, so if you want the Padauk wood you will have to cut them yourself.
To hold the candle, cut a piece of maple to the size specified in the cut list. This can go all the way through or not, depending on the depth of your tea light.
Ensure the tea light you purchase will fit in the hole. I have had issues with them being a bit too large. Glue the candle base to the bottom back of the tree ensuring bottoms are flush.
Attach with the Gorilla Super Glue in the center of the roof gable area. Once the assembly is dry, you will need to install the keyhole slot plug for hanging the calendar on the wall.
Glue the keyhole plug in place with Gorilla Super Glue ensuring correct orientation. Since the inside of each compartment was finished prior to cutting and assembly, you only have to worry about the outside and roof assembly.
Two coats on the inside of the compartments is more than satisfactory. The number of extra coats you do in this step is completely up to you.
As mentioned earlier, this can be done by spraying or by hand. If you still have any imperfections you can finish rubbing out with steel wool. I don't spray the back since the hardboard is pre-finished when you purchase from your local store.
Stand back and admire your finished product. Remember, if you don't want to make this yourself, you can buy the finished product on my Etsy store.
Shirley, you have an created an Instructable that is worthy of much more praise than I can give it. Your workmanship, photography, video quality, writing, and attention to detail are par excellence.
- Wähle einfach das gewünschte Bild aus der Kategorie bilder zu 1 advent und klicke auf einen der darunter angezeigten Codes. Dieser wird. Download royalty-free Low-key studio shot of a nice advent wreath with baubles and three burning red candles stock photo from Depositphotos. Oct 31, - Wähle einfach das gewünschte Bild aus der Kategorie Bilder 1 Advent und klicke auf einen der darunter angezeigten Codes. Dieser wird. pyzamko.eu stellt für Euch 1. Advent GB Bilder 1. Advent GBPic für GB Einträge, 1. Advent Whatsapp Bilder und über Grüße GBs, Facebook & Jappy. - Wähle einfach das gewünschte Bild aus der Kategorie bilder zu 1 advent und klicke auf einen der darunter angezeigten Codes. Dieser wird.Bild 1. Advent - Registrierte Benutzer
Melde dich an, um zu kommentieren. Weiter zur Anleitung. Nikolaus Comic Zugriffe:My family said it was now up to me to carry on the woodworking tradition of the family. So with this I decided to take the ideas we had started with to make these advent calendars.
The first couple I made I had some serious issues with the doors. How to hinge them This may sound tricky, but it is actually quite simple.
The calendars are highlighted with a Christmas tree in the top gable area with a battery-operated tea light in behind to give a nice glow.
My preference for wood is maple for the main case and Padauk for the doors and accent pieces. I like the Padauk for the main fact of having the red accent wood for Christmas.
These house shaped advent calendars have now become quite a popular item on my online store. This is a project for intermediate to advanced woodworkers and requires patience and the proper tools.
With the trial and error process that I worked through over the past year, I think I have worked out all the bugs to make these a sturdy and long lasting family heirloom.
I have included the drawing plans with material list and templates for easy reference. If you love the design but just want to buy the finished product, you purchase it on my Etsy store.
Prepare your parts for the main case, dividers and roof from maple. I plane my maple to just above my thickness required, cut them to length and width as per attached drawings , then run them through my drum sander to get my final thickness.
Finish sand all parts with grit by hand. TIP: Depending on the thickness of your rough maple you may be able to re-saw on the band saw.
You will need to plane the wood to a minimum of 1" or just slightly over. You can save a lot of wood by cutting your parts to rough width and length and re-sawing those pieces in half.
If you go off a bit on the band saw, the narrower parts can be used for the dividers. I try to do this as often as possible as I hate to see all that wood go to waste as wood shavings from the planer.
Before I start cutting my rabbits and dadoes I like to spray finish with a couple of coats polyurethane on the dividers and case frame pieces.
Those little boxes are impossible to spray and sand properly after assembly. Only put one coat of finish the inside only of the gable board.
One coat helps prevent the board from warping before getting to the cutting and assembly stage. For the two roof pieces, you will need to tape off the inside area where they will be glued to the gable later.
I prefer to spray on my clear finish, but if you don't have access to an HVLP spray gun you can finish all parts by hand.
I use a water based finish, but any clear finish of your choice is fine. While these parts are drying I start working on the other parts.
The round-over allows the doors to open properly without the edge rubbing against the frames. It is easier to rout this round-over on the long strips than trying to do each door individually.
Sand the strips before cutting into length for the doors. Sanding before cutting takes away a bit of the work load when finish sanding the doors.
Make sure you put the square side of the doors to the miter saw fence and have a zero clearance backerboard against the fence to prevent any tearout on the doors.
This will skim off any tearout you may get. It is good practice to make several extra doors for test drilling the hinge holes later on.
You should get 30 doors from the material. Lay out doors and spray or hand finish all sides and edges of the doors with 2 coats of polyurethane, lightly sanding between coats.
Pre-finishing at this stage, before attaching the numbers and knobs, makes the sanding much easier. Now lets prepare the pre-finished parts for the outside case.
I tend to work back and forth now between spray-finishing the doors and making the final cuts and dadoes of the calendar case.
Before I start cutting the dadoes and rabbits, I choose the best outside and front edges and mark the inside ends and inside back with pencil so I know which sides I want to cut.
You can do this either on the table saw or router, whichever is your preference for tools. Just be sure to use backer-boards to prevent any tear-out on your finished pieces.
This gives a flat clean surface for gluing on the roof pieces. Please refer to my attached drawings for the exact location of each dado.
These need to be cut on the inside of both the side and end pieces. I originally never did the dadoes for the dividers, but have found that assembly works much better to hold everything in place and ensuring squareness.
Lightly sand the dadoes and edges slightly for a clean look. It is handy to have some extra stock cut at the same width and thickness to use as test pieces.
Each piece needs to nestle together snugly but not so tight that you can't get them apart. You may need to pull them apart after dry-fitting to make adjustments.
The dadoes also need to be flush on the outer edges when put together. The drawings show the exact location of each dado. Select the edges that you will want to have toward the front of the calendar.
Flip over and mark the back sides. Since the dadoes are on reverse edges for the horizontal and vertical dividers, it will make it easier for cutting the proper side on the table saw.
I prefer using my dado set on the table saw as each groove can be done in one pass. Alternately, if you don't have a dado set for your table saw, you can use a full kerf TCG blade and make the dadoes in two passes, adjusting your fence for each pass.
These will be done on the horizontal dividers only and the top and bottom pieces. Placement of these holes is key and must be accurate to ensure the rods go straight through the case.
I go to my drill press for this job and utilize my fence and a stop block. If you plan on making more than one you may want to make a template or a jig to speed up this process.
I drill each divider individually so the bit doesn't move or bend making the lower board holes crooked. You can mark and drill one, then use that piece as the template for marking the other dividers and top and bottom pieces.
You can mark with a pencil, but I like to use the same size brad point drill bit and tap it lightly with the hammer through my template holes to give an indentation for the center.
Another method I have done is by using my stop block. I mark one divider only, set my stop for the first hole and drill all the dividers and top and bottom pieces individually, then set the stop block for the second hole and repeat until all holes are drilled.
This ensures ever hole is identical. Once the holes are drilled it would be a good time to do a dry fit. Assemble the dividers together. When assembling you will need to clamp the dividers within the side pieces and clamp the top case piece in place, leaving the bottom off.
Once you are satisfied you can glue up the case. It needs to stay off to install the doors. Glue your dividers together first if required.
Apply glue to the top edges of the divider assembly and clamp on the case top ensure front is flush. Let dry for about half an hour. Then repeat this process to attach both sides, applying glue to the dividers and end dadoes of the sides.
Make sure front side is flush and the entire case is square. This is going to require a lot of clamps.
When dry, remove from clamps and clean up any glue squeeze out. Sand joints and front of case with grit paper as required. Always use candleholders, and make sure that the candles fit snugly in them.
Fire and drying branches don't mix or, rather, they mix too well. If you notice that some branches have dried, remove them and replace them with fresh ones.
The hard work is done. It's time to bless your Advent wreath so that you can begin using it! Now it's time to start using your wreath in your celebration of Advent.
The first thing to do is to bless the wreath. Traditionally, this is done on the First Sunday in Advent or the evening before.
If Advent has already begun, however, you can bless the wreath as soon as you've finished making it. You can find instructions for blessing the wreath in How to Bless an Advent Wreath.
Anyone can bless the wreath, though it's traditional for the father of the family to do so. If you can, you might invite your parish priest over for dinner and ask him to bless the wreath.
If he can't do it on the First Sunday of Advent or the evening before , you could have him bless it sometime in advance.
Once your wreath is assembled and blessed, you can light one purple candle. Many families light the Advent wreath in the evening, right before they sit down to dinner, and leave it burning until dinner is finished, but you can light the wreath at any time, especially before reading from the Bible or praying.
During the first week of Advent, one candle is lit; during the second week, two; etc. If you do have a rose candle, save it for the third week, which begins with Gaudete Sunday , when the priest wears rose vestments at Mass.
For instance, after your family has finished dinner, you could read the reading for the day and then blow out the candles on the wreath.
Have a nice 1st Advent my dear friend Bild wurde von ludmilla mit der kostenlosen Animations-Bildbearbeitung von Blingee erstellt. Gestalte Have a nice 1st Advent my dear friend Bilder für elektronische Postkarten, füge Have a nice 1st Advent my dear friend Kunstwerke zu Profilen und Pinnwand-Beiträgen hinzu, bearbeite Fotos für Sammelalben und vieles mehr.
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